The Journal
A WATCH COLLECTOR’S PURSUIT OF HAUTE HORLOGERIE
Shipping and delivery conditions
MEET IWC COLLECTOR NELSON HERRING AS HE CONTEMPLATES THE ESSENCE OF FINE WATCHMAKING
To Nelson Herring, a watch is much more than the mechanics. It is art and a means of communication. “The more you look at a watch, the more you begin to see things. You see the harmony in its design, the coherence of the dial and the case, and the cleverness that went into the appliqués, fonts, and colors. Watches are pieces of functional art that will be remembered as manmade masterpieces,” Nelson once said. The dentist from Virginia is still one of the most avid members of the IWC Collectors Forum. In his free time, he explores painting and furniture-building, passions that underscore his keen eye for aesthetics and design.
Nearly two decades after this Forum interview, the IWC Journal reconnected with Nelson to discuss what Haute Horlogerie means to him, the criteria he uses to choose his watches, and why he puts sentiment before investment.
— Nelson Herring wearing a rare “Dresswatch” Caliber 88 from 1947 (left) and a beautiful Ingenieur Ref. 866 (right)
HOW WATCHES FIND THEIR OWNERS
WHEN DID YOU START GETTING INTERESTED IN THE WORLD OF HAUTE HORLOGERIE?
I can’t tell you when exactly, but I do remember the old IWC hardcover catalogs. I got one when I was still in school. I was so fascinated looking at all the watches, and I remember thinking: “Ohh I have to have one of these!”
CAN YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST HIGH-END WATCH THAT TRULY IMPRESSED YOU?
It was when I got my Portugieser Minute Repeater 5240 RG. The skill, craftsmanship, complication, and legacy of this watch make it haute horlogerie to me, and also the very classy script on the dial. The story was one of friendship and serendipity. I bought the yellow gold model, but without the box. A few weeks later, one of my good watch collector friends sold his complete set of rose gold models to someone I did not know. I wrote the new owner, and he decided he did not bond with the rose gold one, so we made a deal for me to buy it. Of course, I sold the yellow gold one to finance the rose gold one.
WHAT DOES THAT TIMEPIECE MEAN TO YOU NOW?
It means more to me since it was originally one of my buddy’s watches, but made its way to me. So it was sort of meant to be. IWC Museum curator David Seyffer later displayed it in the IWC Museum. I was sad it was gone for almost a year, but it makes for an even better story. I believe watches go to the person they belong to, and that is really true here.
THE HIGHEST FORM OF HAUTE HORLOGERIE
WHAT DISTINGUISHES HAUTE HORLOGERIE FROM REGULAR WATCHMAKING?
It’s difficult to have everyone agree on what haute horlogerie is, I suppose. But for me, it is a number of things: movement (finishing, handcrafting, legacy, precision, and watchmaking skills), the type of dial, the case materials, and the complexity. So, double-chronographs, minute repeaters, and tourbillons certainly fit.
But also, innovations like IWC’s Ceratanium®, pioneering titanium and ceramics, silicon movement parts, bearings that need much less service and lubrication, CAD and cam machining, etc. But that does not overshadow the finishing and crafting by hand, which might be the highest form of haute horlogerie. It puts things into an entirely different price category in most cases.
— The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar IW503406 features a platinum case and black alligator strap by Santoni
— The Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde IW504602 in 18 ct 5N gold case
— Beautiful classic: The Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon IW545801 features an 18 ct Armor Gold® case
WHAT ARE YOUR TOP CRITERIA WHEN ADDING A NEW TIMEPIECE TO YOUR COLLECTION?
Always the condition, for a vintage piece. Only great condition really works. For new watches, it would be whether or not I already have the complication. Visual appeal, of course. And I do have my favorites, which are single and double chronographs.
WHAT ABOUT PERPETUAL CALENDARS?
I have four Perpetual Calendars. I like them because of the genius way Kurt Klaus designed them. To be able to set them from the crown is amazing. I own the GST Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Titanium (Ref. IW375603), the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Titanium Cellini Limited Edition 50 Pieces (Ref. IW502606), and the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 7 Day Limited Edition 25 Pieces (Ref. IW502113) - a spectacular dial with an incredible moon phase. Lastly, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 125 Years Wempe Limited Edition 50 Pieces (Ref. IW375701) is perhaps my favorite for the added chronograph function.
— The Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde IW516501
INSIDERS ONLY: WHAT’S ON YOUR WRIST?
ANY IWC WATCH YOU’LL NEVER PART WITH?
My Mark XII because it belonged to my father and was the first IWC I ever saw. My father is still alive today, but he gave it to me many years ago for Christmas. After he gave it to me, I knew for sure, this was my favorite watch brand. That’s when I started collecting watches. It’s not the fanciest watch, but it means more to me because it’s from my father. He really loved it.
HOW DO YOU BALANCE EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT TO A WATCH AND ITS INVESTMENT POTENTIAL?
I don’t. Watches are not an investment to me. They are a way to connect with other great collectors and make new friends. So, a watch might or might not be a good investment, but it can have an emotional attachment if I have great memories of hunting it down (the search can be one of the best parts), discussing it with like-minded friends, spending time with it and friends.
HOW DOES SPORTING AN IWC INFLUENCE YOUR MOOD?
It gives me a lot of self-satisfaction. A lot of times, insiders know what you’re wearing, but not everybody on the street knows what it is. I like that very much. Sometimes I get to explain the brand to someone who does not know anything about watches, and over time, you see how they get hooked. That’s always fun.
BROWSE OUR TIMEPIECES
SELECTED FOR YOU
