IWC REPORT GENEVA: PASCAL GROB’S HOT SPOTS
This time on tour: “Züri isst” blogger and trend scout Pascal Grob, who also knows his way around Geneva. Smash burger, steak and fries, top pastries or Thai vibes! Five Geneva favorites of the GaultMillau trend scout.
Photos: Adrian Bretscher
PAPABOU – GENEVA’S BEST SMASH BURGER
How does a smash burger differ from a regular cheeseburger? Pressing the minced meat firmly onto the hot plate creates a crust with lots of flavor, while a high fat content prevents the patty from drying out. My favorite in Geneva can be found at “Papabou”: All the ingredients are carefully selected, home-made and complement each other perfectly. In addition to the patty, the fluffy brioche bun is stacked with lettuce, onions, pickles, ketchup, mustard, a spicy mayonnaise, and a choice of Gruyère or Cheddar cheese. It is served with double-fried French fries made from locally-sourced potatoes and can be accompanied by a wide selection of natural wines that are a perfect match for the smash burger.
GALLO – BISTRO CUISINE PAR EXCELLENCE
Located on Boulevard du Pont d’Arve, “Gallo” opened less than six months ago, but is already a hot spot of the Geneva food scene. And it’s no wonder: Before teaming up with Tania Valenzuela and Louis Sauzay to open his own restaurant last December, Jacopo Romagnoli had worked in some of the best kitchens worldwide. At “Gallo,” the young chef has swapped painstaking gastronomy for bistro classics: a fantastic rib-eye steak, dry-aged for at least 60 days, served with beef jus and first-rate fries, or a “Jussy” pork bratwurst in mustard sauce with Tropea onions and mashed potatoes. Naturally, all the dishes are prepared using top-quality ingredients that catapult them into a league all of their own. The kind of restaurant that I’m still longing for in Zurich.
LE COMPTOIR WOODWARD – WORLD-CLASS PASTRIES
Titouan Claudet is GaultMillau’s current “Pastry Chef of the Year”, creating remarkably attractive desserts with millimetric precision. Together with his team, he prepares the desserts in the restaurants L’Atelier Robuchon and Le Jardinier at the luxury hotel “The Woodward”. You can also savor his sweet creations without eating at one of the restaurants: “Le Comptoir Woodward” on Rue Neuve-du-Molard is my insider tip for a souvenir from Geneva. I especially recommend the Paris-Brest à la Claudet. The “Roulé exotique,” the yuzu tart, and the wide range of cookies are also top class.
MARIUS – A WINE BAR WITH CHARM
Uncomplicated yet refined dishes, some smaller some larger, but all strongly reflecting the season. And an extensive selection of natural wines, with something to suit every taste. A combination that works perfectly in the “Bombar”. For one and a half years, owner Marc Popper has also run the neighboring wine bar, “Marius,” calling on the same recipe for success. In line with the intimacy of the establishment, the dishes are kept a little simpler: fresh oysters, “Cecina” dried meat, a toast with Guanciale, chervil and hazelnut, pointed cabbage with ‘Nduja and ricotta, or grilled shrimps with chili crunch. The perfect wine bar, either to start the evening or bring it to a close.
SATU – A SHORT TRIP TO YAOWARAT
What Sandrine Pally and Yuttakan Pongkunsup do is a constant topic of conversation, even among foodies outside of Geneva: “Soï” and “Suahoy” are both among the best addresses in Switzerland for Thai food. With “Satu”, they have now opened their third restaurant, which gives off the vibe of a short trip to Thailand and a bar in Bangkok’s vibrant Chinatown (“Yaowarat”). Thai “beef jerky,” the “Yum Talay Krob” seafood salad with Thai basil, and kaffir lime or roasted duck with egg noodles are just some of the highlights on the menu. Of course unusual cocktails are also part and parcel of the “Yaowarat” experience: a Thai Bloody Mary, “Khun Honey” with vodka, honey and Granny Smith, or “Soi Cowboy” with bourbon whiskey, peanut butter, and muscovado.
