The Journal
Behind the Glow – How IWC crafted Ceralume®
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LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CREATION OF IWC’S FIRST FULLY LUMINOUS CERAMIC WATCH
In May 2024, IWC Schaffhausen unveiled its new Ceralume® technology and introduced its first watch featuring a fully luminous ceramic case ring. Developed over several years by IWC’s engineering division XPL, Ceralume® is created by incorporating high-grade Super-LumiNova® pigments into ceramic raw materials. This process was no small feat: one of the main challenges the XPL team faced was achieving a perfectly homogeneous blend of raw materials, despite the varying particle sizes, to meet IWC’s exacting quality standards. The solution was to develop a customized, in-house ball milling process.
Innovation Product Manager Leonard Fetz explains how the development of the first Ceralume® concept watch came about.
BRIGHT IDEAS FROM THE APPRENTICE WORKSHOP
How do you approach a project like this?
Inspiration comes from very different channels and sources. In this particular case, it all started with the Apprentice Challenge. Each year, our apprentices design a watch based on various themes and concepts. This is where the idea of creating a fully luminous watch emerged. It was based on a different watch model but the core vision stemmed from that.
Then what happened?
We took the apprentice’s rough rendering and said: “Well, let’s get started!” We sat down with internal and external specialists and discussed the various options. This is an animated process involving our XPL team – experts from all departments, including innovation, engineering, design, purchasing, etc.
We discussed: How do we proceed with the design? What plans do we need? Which watch model is suitable? What is the design concept, i.e. what do we want from this watch? Only then do we move on to creating prototypes and then, finally, production.
— The IWC Ceralume® Concept Watch
The majority of the work went into the case, as it had to be designed from scratch
— The Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces Ref. IW326905 with a black ceramic case is IWC’s first Pilot’s Watch with a luminescent white dial
COLOR MATCHING
Do you work on everything at once or one thing at a time?
The majority of the work went into the case, as it had to be designed from scratch. We focused on the other components later, then dealt with integration e.g. what color the strap would glow in and what size to mount it in. We had to consult suppliers about the feasibility of the dial, to clarify and convey exactly what we wanted. This all takes a great deal of time. At the same time, researchers were studying how Ceralume® could be used as a case material.
Why the extra research into the luminous dial? Couldn’t you have used the Black Aces watch dial?
Luminous dials come in many different shades. The basic material is the same, but you can configure it differently each time. Do we want more or less luminosity? How high should the proportion of Super-LumiNova® be? We had to make sure the color of the Super-LumiNova® on the hands and date disc matched the case. Lastly, the Black Aces is a three-hand watch without recessed counters, so we couldn’t build on the existing dials.
The key is to make the case uniform so it doesn’t have different levels of brightness
PRODUCTION CHALLENGES
Ceralume® is made by mixing ceramic and Super-LumiNova® pigments. Why is it so complex?
Ceramic and Super-LumiNova® particles are different in size, although Super-LumiNova® is actually a type of ceramic. But it is virtually impossible to adjust their size. This results in an inhomogeneous surface and increased accumulations of either ceramic or Super-LumiNova® particles. The key is to make the case uniform so it doesn’t have different levels of brightness.
And the solution?
This is, of course, a trade secret. But to explain it simply, we used a special ball milling process that we had to adapt to the raw materials used.
— Super-LumiNova® is a luminous material that acts like a battery for storing light energy
— Innovation Product Manager and Schaffhausen native, Leonard Fetz
GLOW FOR SHOW
What was your biggest challenge on this project?
Combining the technical requirements with the aesthetic demands was a huge challenge. It wasn’t easy. After all, creating a completely luminous watch is not an everyday endeavor. As a project manager, I am super proud that we have received such a positive response from the industry.
On what occasion and with what outfit would you wear the watch?
Personally, I think a white ceramic watch goes with everything – whether for daytime wear or, especially, at night. It’s perfect for anywhere that tends to be a little darker. Even the slightest change in the room lighting makes it glow. And, of course, you’ll particularly stand out in a nightclub! It is absolutely eye-catching – and will definitely draw attention. This, coupled with the innovative materials, immediately makes the watch a talking piece. Everyone who sees the watch wants to know more. And that’s what I find so beautiful about this project.
